Bike by David North

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Additional Information to Supplement Bike by David North

Contents

Buying a Used Bicycle
Choosing a BMX Bike
Cargo Bicycles
Cycle Touring
Mixed Terrain Touring (MTT)
Freestyle BMX
BMX Racing
Cycle Speedway
Cyclo-cross
Mountain Bike (MTB) Racing
Road Racing
Track Racing
Removing Wheels
The Chain
Sprockets
Pedals
Cranks
Wheels
Tyres
Brakes
Replacing Brake Pads
Adjusting Rim Brakes
Gears
The Front Derailleur
The Rear Derailleur
Handlebars
The Headset
Saddle
Seatpost

Buying a Used Bicycle

When buying a used bicycle through the internet, there are two important things to remember: the possibility that the bicycle might be stolen; and once you have bought it you probably won't be able to return it unless it is not as described.

Stolen Bicycle for Sale...

Before buying a used bicycle, ask the seller if it has been registered and, if so, with whom. Also, ask them to provide a frame number. This is stamped on most bicycles on the underside of the bottom bracket, where the pedals join the frame. If they don't provide it, notify the police. If they do provide it, they are probably legitimate. You can always run it through an internet search (see Further Reading and Websites on pages 252-253).

Used Bicycle Checklist

If you can get to see a bicycle before you buy it then so much the better. If it is online, then you can still use this checklist to ask the seller questions. Make sure you are familiar with the cost of this type of bicycle and how much replacement parts are.

Right size: Straddle the frame with your feet flat on the ground. You should have 2.5 to 5 cm (1 to 2 inches) of clearance.

Try before you buy: If it is the right size, take it for a test ride and see how it feels. Adjust the seat to the right height before you do and make sure the brakes work. Does anything feel loose or can you hear any creaks or squeaks? Run through the gears to make sure they change smoothly.

Frame: Examine the frame for overall condition, but especially for cracks, particularly in the areas where the tubes meet and where the wheels fit. If you find any then don't buy the bicycle, as a cracked frame is very dangerous to ride.

Wheels: Turn the bicycle upside down and spin the wheels looking at the rim as it passes the brake pads. If you see any wobbles, the wheel is not true. This is not too expensive to fix, although a new wheel might be cheaper. If you hear any ticking noises, the bearings may be worn. With the bicycle upright, try to rock the wheel from side to side. If it moves, and the axle nuts are tight, then there is a problem with the bearings. These can be costly to replace.

Tyres: Check that the tread is not worn down, otherwise you will have to buy new tyres. Check for splits, tears, perishing and wear to the sidewall. Small splits can easily be repaired with super glue. Tears and perishing will mean that you will have to replace the tyre soon if not straight away, and wear to the sidewall is probably caused by misaligned brake pads, meaning that you will probably need to replace the tyre in the near future, even if you re-align the pads.

Brakes: Check that there are brake pads fitted, the cables are attached and the brakes work when you pull the levers. If there is any stiffness or looseness then you will be able to adjust these quite easily yourself or, if you're not maintenance minded, a bike mechanic can do it.

Cranks: These are the arms that connect the pedals to the frame. Grasp one in each hand and try to rock them. If they move, the crank bolt may need tightening or there is a problem with the bottom bracket. These can be difficult to remove and replace if they are rusted in.

Gears: If you have not been able to test ride the bicycle, turn the pedals with one hand and run through the gear changes for the front and rear to make sure they are smooth. This is easier with an assistant as you will need to have the rear wheel off the ground.

The Chain: See page 208 in the Bicycle Maintenance chapter to find out how to measure the chain with a 12-inch (30-cm) ruler to check for chain stretch. If it is stretched you will need to replace the chain.

Sprockets: These are the cogs next to the pedals and the rear wheel that the chain travels over. See page 211 in the Bicycle Maintenance chapter to find out how to check them for wear.

Cables: If these are rusty or frayed they will need to be replaced.

Seatpost: Check that this slides easily in the tube. If it is stuck, you may have a problem as they can be very difficult to free up.

Headset: Holding the handlebars with the brakes on, push the bike forwards and backwards. If you hear a "clunk", the headset is loose. Holding the frame near the handlebars, lift the front wheel off the ground. The handlebar and front wheel should flop to one side or the other. If not, it is too stiff. Tightening or loosening the headset is relatively straightforward with the right tools. See pages 229-230 in the Bicycle Maintenance chapter.

Top Tip

When you visit a store ask the assistant about the qualities of the frame and key components such as wheels, gears and brakes, and how appropriate the bicycle is to your actual needs. Unless you have already done your homework, don't buy on the first visit.

Top Tip

If you are buying a folding bicycle make sure to check that the folding mechanism works properly, as some of them can become very stiff. Make sure it locks securely into place too.

Choosing a BMX Bike

BMX (bicycle motocross) was originally designed for racing on dirt tracks. Since then, a "freestyle" form of BMX has evolved with five disciplines: park, ramp (also known as vert), dirt jump (jump or trail), street and flatland.

Different Sizes

There are BMX-style bikes with smaller wheels for younger riders starting at 16" wheels, but a BMX proper has 20" wheels with a frame suitable for a rider measuring 147 cm to 193 cm (4ft 10in to 6 ft 4in). However, it is possible to get a 20" wheel BMX with a smaller frame that would, therefore, be suitable for a rider shorter than 147 cm (4ft 10in).

Identify the Purpose

Unlike other children's bikes, BMXs are specialized machines with different features for the different disciplines. It is possible to use the same bike for most BMX activities, especially if modifications are made, but if there is a specific discipline that the bike will be used for, then knowing that will help a great deal in making a choice.

BMX Checklist

When looking at BMX bikes, use the following guide to identify the right type. It is a general guide, so you will need to do a little more research, but it does cover the key things to consider:

Build materials: Chromoly is a common material used for many types and it is excellent for BMX race bikes because it is strong yet light. Steel is often used for freestyle. A BMX race bike should be much lighter in weight than a freestyle BMX. The quality of components is also important as these bikes take a lot of knocks. Good component brands are SNAFU, Shadow Conspiracy and Odyssey.

Size: The size that matters is the top tube. Cheaper bicycles have a standard 18" top tube. However, for ramp, street and dirt jumping a 21" top tube is generally preferred. There are also incremental increases in fractions of an inch.

Handlebars: BMX race bars are upright with a crossbar for extra strength and freestyle bikes have steep riser bars.

Bearings: Sealed bearings in the wheels, headset (where the front forks join the frame) and bottom bracket (where the pedal arms join the frame) will mean less maintenance and a better, smoother ride.

Wheels: Consider the wheel construction with regard to the purpose. Generally a race bike will have 32 spokes, a jump bike will have 36 and a flatland or street will have 38.

Tyres: Look for smoother tread and wider tyres (2 to 2.2 inches) for freestyle and narrower (1.75 inch), knobbly tyres for the race.

Brakes: Freestyle brakes vary from front and rear, rear only or none and are usually U-brakes. BMX race bikes will normally have rear brakes. A new BMX, freestyle or race, should have at least rear brakes fitted.

Gyro: This feature allows the bars to be spun round through 360 degrees without the brake cables tangling up. These are important in park, vert and dirt jump.

Pegs: These are pieces of strong metal that protrude from the wheel hubs for performing various tricks and stunts. These are used in freestyle and will either be front and rear or rear only, depending on the nature of the discipline and the rider's preference.

Buying a BMX

Trying different bikes at a shop is the first thing to do, then, if you find the right one and it's cheaper via the internet, you can be confident of the bike you buy. However, will you get a service plan or will your child be able to do all the maintenance and repairs? Also, bikes bought online may come in parts that you have to put together. Prices can match standard children's 20" bikes at entry-level, but can also reach several hundred higher for top of the range.

Top Tip

BMX bikes do not need a kickstand, chain guard, mudguards or reflectors, so either don't buy one with those attachments or remove them.

Cargo Bicycles

These go by many types such as porteur, butcher's bike, baker's bike, freight bike, newspaper bike, carrier bike and bakfietsen. As many of the names suggest, their origins were practical, being constructed to carry either heavy or awkward loads. As motor transport became more accessible, their use diminished in affluent nations, though using bikes for carrying loads is common in developing countries.

Rebirth

With the growing interest in living a greener life and saving on fuel and vehicle costs, the cargo bicycle is making a comeback. For those wanting to exchange the car for something that will still transport a family and its shopping, they are an ideal alternative. Many manufacturers are now creating amazing variations that take advantage of modern technologies.

General Design Features

Given the proliferation of types of cargo bicycle, I cannot offer a set of specific design features, but they will all share some of the following features that distinguish them from the more common types of bicycle.

• Large carrier: This will be positioned front or rear and will be considerably larger than carriers for normal bikes.
• Length: Some have longer wheelbases than a normal bicycle, whilst a recent version, called a "longtail", has a considerably longer wheelbase. Longer wheelbases offer more space, and strength, for carrying loads. They can also be easier to steer than cargo bikes that have shorter wheelbases and large front carriers. It is possible to get kits to convert a normal bike into a longtail.
• Steel frame: Generally cargo bikes will be steel-framed to provide the necessary load-bearing strength.
• Three wheels: Although they are not strictly a "bicycle", I include them as they follow the same principles and they do the job. Having three wheels obviously creates greater strength and stability for loads, and also provides a wider loading area. Such machines are called "work-trikes".

Uses of Cargo Bikes

As their prime purpose is to carry loads, they are the ultimate shopping bicycles. They are also ideal for carrying children, with or without shopping. As such they make great family bikes for those who do not have a car, or have decided to give up the car, whether that be to reduce carbon, get healthier or save money.

Buying

Given the variety available, the best approach is to search online using the various names like "longtail", "cargo bike" or "work trike". Prices will start in the low hundreds but can reach into the thousands.

Cycle Touring

This is a perfect way to enjoy the great outdoors and experience a range of spectacular scenery, at a pace that allows you to take it all in, whilst getting fitter at the same time.

Fitness Level

If you've never done it, I recommend you train in advance using the fitness programme in the previous section. At the very least, you should take a few trips close to home, carrying a similar amount of equipment as you expect to on your tour. This way you can gauge the distance you can comfortably do in a day. Several days of consecutive cycling can take a toll on your energy levels, so make sure to plan some rest days into your itinerary.

What Kind of Bicycle

For road touring there is a classic style of bicycle that is described on pages 64-66 in the Choosing a Bicycle chapter. You can still use other bikes though as long as they have:

• Low gears
• Luggage rack
• Comfortable seat
• Sturdy frame

Carrying Your Luggage

It is strongly advised that you do not carry your luggage on your back so, unless you are just carrying a credit card to pay for food, drink and accommodation as you go, you will need either panniers or a trailer. A handlebar bag is worth getting, as it is great for storing such things as your passport, guide book, tools and camera.

Other Equipment to Consider

Apart from the more obvious things like food, cooking equipment, tent, sleeping bag and clothes (make sure to get some comfortable cycling shorts and decent waterproofs), you will need some spares and a bigger toolkit than the one you would normally use for everyday cycling.

Touring Toolkit and Spares

Before setting off give your bike a full service and check everything. See the Bicycle Maintenance chapter on pages 192-231. Once away the essentials you will need are:

• Set of Allen (hex) keys
• Adjustable spanner (wrench)
• Other spanners as required
• Chain tool
• Spoke key
• Bicycle pump
• Puncture-repair kit
• Inner tube
• Chain links
• Gear cable
• Brake cable
• Two brake pads

Mixed Terrain Touring (MTT)

This is also known as "rough stuff" or "rough riding" and includes variations on the theme such as alpine touring, adventure touring and snow biking. The names say it all, describing forms of cycling that involve riding on a variety of terrain and surfaces.

Adventurous Souls

This, in my opinion, is the most adventurous form of cycling, taking you into areas that no other style of cycling does, and few vehicles can either. It's ideal for those who love to explore the wilderness or remoter regions of the world.

Bicycle and Equipment

You do need a bicycle and equipment that are fit for purpose but they don't have to be extremely expensive or specialized. Trekking hybrids are designed for forms of MTT but you can mix and match your own elements to create the bicycle for you. Essentials you will need are a strong, flexible frame, strong wheels, tyres that can cope with mixed terrain, some form of suspension like a sprung saddle and accessories for touring such as pannier racks, water carriers and mudguards.

Personal Safety

If you are cycling alone in wilderness or remote regions, you need to make sure that someone knows your route plan. Make contact with this person at the same time every day so that if they don't hear from you, they can notify the rescue services and give them your route.

Freestyle BMX

Freestyle BMX is a generic term for five different disciplines. They tend to be most popular with younger riders.

Street

This involves performing tricks and stunts using man-made objects such as benches, stairs, handrails, walls and curbs. The purpose is to demonstrate style, skill and creativity.

Park

BMX riders use skateboard parks as well as skateboarders. Skate parks can be indoor or outdoor and made of wood, concrete or metal.

Vert

Riders use steep, curved ramps that extend into the vertical, allowing them to perform tricks and stunts in the air.

Trails

Also called "dirt jumping", trails are lines of jumps made from compacted soil. The jumps consist of steep take-off ramps and slightly less steep landing ramps.

Flatland

As the name suggests, flatland BMX involves the use of a flat surface. Flatland riders perform tricks predominantly centred on balance. It is slower and generally perceived as more artistic than the other forms of freestyle.

Getting Involved in BMX Freestyle

Given the do-it-yourself nature of freestyle, finding clubs is unlikely. Freestyle is something that is shared and passed on by those who already do it, so your best way to get involved is to talk to other freestylers.

BMX Racing

Now an Olympic sport, Bicycle Motor Cross (BMX) is most popular with younger riders, although it is also a great family activity, as parents who don't ride will often get involved as coaches, mechanics, organizers and supporters.

Race Meetings

Races involve riders of similar age or ability competing around a 300- to 400-metre track with humps, bumps and banked corners called "berms". There can be up to eight riders in a race with the winner being the first to cross the finish line.

BMX Equipment

You will need a BMX bike designed for racing and some safety gear such as a racing helmet, gloves, and elbow and kneepads.

Get Involved

The best way is to find your nearest club by looking online, or asking your local library or cycling association.

Cycle Speedway

Appealing to males and females, young and old, cycle speedway involves racing on outdoor dirt tracks, 65 to 90 metres in length. There are separate matches for Under 8, Under 10, Under 13, Under 16, Under 19, Open and Over 40. Races are a sprint taking less than a minute and, given that physical contact is legal and the bicycles do not have brakes, this makes for a very intense and exciting sport.

Competitions

Competitions, or matches as they are called, take place between individuals, pairs or teams with four riders in a race. The number of laps varies depending on the age of the riders and the length of the track. There are between eight and 24 races in a match, with points awarded for placings in each race. The winner is the one with the highest score at the end of the day.

Equipment

Riders wear helmets, gloves, clothing that covers the whole body and padding for knees, elbows and hips. The bicycles used by serious participants are specialised, being essentially lightweight, single-speed and having no brakes. Beginners can use a modified mountain bike.

Getting Involved

This is an international sport and there are clubs in most countries. Find your national cycle speedway association online and contact them for clubs in your area.

Cyclo-cross

Cyclo-cross, also known as CX, CCX and cyclo-X, is a very easy sport to get involved in and is becoming increasingly popular. It involves racing in laps around a short course of 1.5 to 3 km (1 to 2 miles). Courses can be on grass, wooded tracks and sand, and they contain obstacles such as steep banks, steps, wooden barriers and pits that force riders to dismount and carry their bikes. Courses are designed so that a rider will carry his or her bike for about 10 per cent of the course.

Competitions

These usually take place in autumn and winter with large numbers of riders competing. Races often have fixed times so will end even if there are competitors still in the field. There are separate races for men, women, veterans and juniors. Competitions are generally open to anybody.

Cyclo-cross Equipment

Cyclo-cross bikes have drop handlebars and thin knobbly tyres. Beginners can use their existing mountain bikes before committing to a cyclo-cross bike. Clothing is basically the same as for road racing.

Getting Involved in Cyclo-cross

There are local clubs, and regional and national associations you can get in touch with. Sign-up for an event, go along and give it a go.

Mountain Bike (MTB) Racing

Various disciplines of MTB racing have evolved in recent decades. Here I will look at five of the most popular: downhill, four-cross, cross-country, marathon and enduro.

Downhill

As the name suggests, riders race downhill against the clock. Apart from being a steep descent, the course typically involves bumps, jumps and steep banks, and takes between two and five minutes.

The bikes used are specialized mountain bikes with strong, light frames, disc brakes, a single chainring and suspension both front and rear. Riders wear a full-face helmet and body armour.

Four-cross (4X)

4X involves four riders competing on a short, downhill course featuring a mixture of BMX-style obstacles. Having four riders hurtling downhill over an obstacle course requires great skill, whilst offering plenty of thrills and spills.

As for downhill, clothing is tough and protective. Unlike downhill bikes, 4X bikes tend to only use front suspension. These are called "hardtails".

Cross-country

With multiple laps of tracks that are 4 to 8 km (3 to 5 miles) long, covering varied terrain, the emphasis in cross-country is on endurance. However, for those who prefer speed to long slogs, there is a shorter version. This is run over a course of 800 metres that takes just a few minutes to complete.

Bicycle helmets and protection are often worn but not the full-face helmets and body armour of downhill and 4X racers. Cross-country competitors use both hardtails (suspension at the front only) and dual-suspension bikes, which are lighter than most MTBs, weighing 7 to 16 kg (15 to 30 lbs).

Marathon

Also called Cross-Country Marathon (XCM), this is a very tough form of MTB racing as marathons take place on mountainous terrain over distances of between 50 to 100 km (30 to 60 miles), with ultra-marathons being even longer.

Enduro

Huge numbers of riders take part in a race that can last for one or two days over technically demanding, off-road terrain. A typical enduro race involves a series of timed stages, with the winner being the rider with the best combined time for all stages. Competitors can be individuals or two- and four-person teams.

Clothing is light for coolness and comfort. The bicycles can be either hardtail or dual-suspension with light frames.

Getting Involved in MTB Racing

You will find mountain bike racing clubs, forums and associations online.

Road Racing

The Tour de France has probably made road racing the most recognized of all cycling sports. It has a long history, being an event at the first modern Olympic Games held in 1896. Road racing requires considerable fitness and tactical ability. Teams will draw on the strengths of individual members to maximize their advantage in changing terrain.

Competitions

Typically, races are massed-start with up to 200 competitors. They take place on roads or Tarmac circuits. Distances range from 20 km (12 miles) for junior competitors to 40 to 100 km (25 to 60 miles) for adults. For top riders there are races of 200 km (120 miles) or more, with "tours" lasting days or even weeks. There are different classifications of race, open to riders of different ages and abilities.

Road Racing Equipment

Road racing bicycles are designed for speed and are instantly recognizable as the classic racing bike, with drop handlebars, light frames and slim wheels. They are expensive, as price in the bicycle world tends to go up as weight comes down. Road racers wear helmets and close-fitting, light clothes.

Getting Involved in Road Racing

This is a very popular sport with many clubs. These are administered by regional and national associations that can help you to find your nearest club.

Track Racing

Races are on specially built, banked tracks, often called velodromes. These vary in design and length. Olympic standard tracks are 250 metres, indoor and made of wood. Outdoor tracks are concrete or Tarmac and often longer.

Competing in Track Racing

There are two main types of track race: sprint and endurance. Each of these has several variants depending on the distance covered and how the riders compete them. Sprints are no more than a kilometre, whilst endurance events can be up to 40 kilometres (25 miles). Both types of event are competed by individuals, against the clock or each other, and by teams.

Track Racing Equipment

Track bikes come in two main forms. Upright bikes are similar to road bikes with slim tyres, drop